lost in the supermarket

This is what draws you in: a fogged-up, grease-splattered storefront window that gives you a peek into the savory simmering setting inside.

Upon closer inspection, you're treated to the splendid aromas that come wafting out of this thing. I don't know what its called but this shallow vat of bubbling meats and veggies was constantly being hand-tended by an attentive chef who was stirring and adding and replenishing ingredients as things cooked down. If you had an abuelita, this is how she would probably do it. The fragrant layers of slow-braised pork and browning onions were almost too much to handle and I almost jumped over the counter.

Horchata-fest! This mexican sweetened rice milk drink is really the only accompaniment to the chipotle-infused flavors. Although the taqueria also serves a full selection of Jarritos, we didn't see any cervezas on the menu.

I fervently believe that every meal's first course should be authentic tacos. Pictured here are the tacos con chorizo (background) and tacos con suadero (broiled veal flank!). It is not hyperbole to say that the suadero was the best taco I've had in New York City. Yeah yeah "immobilized baby cow" arguments aside, this dish is amazing. I am convinced that if the baby cow could know that its destiny was fulfilled in perfection of this type, it would hop right into the tortilla itself. Calves are loving. And juicy. And at Los Portales, they are honored in the highest form of praise: the taco. The chorizo was also a smashing hit. Not too salty, not too oily, it would have been great even with the counter-intuitive 'con huevos' option! Even the cebollita (the grilled sweet spring onion) served with these tacos was tasty. $1.50 a piece, sucka.

Hot sauces are to food what George Michael was to Wham!-- essential for color and seasoning, taken for granted, and sometimes show-stoppers unto themselves. These are no exception. The salsa verde was piquant and yummy, but the red chipotle sauce was the real flaming star: smokey, spicy, thick and peppery. I tried to sneak some into my handbag but the waitress was looking.

The majestic Torta Al Pastor reigns over my tastebuds. Along with the spicy pork, this delicious king of mexican sandwiches is stuffed with lettuce, tomato, onions, cheese, and pickled jalapenos. Everything I've ever dreamed of in life is encapsulated in this hand-held beauty. The spicy pork is not so hot that you can't taste the roasted chipotles it in which it was cooked. The queso blanco is gentle but holds its own in this complex flavor bonanza. The lettuce was crisp (not that wilty shredded crap at the bottom of the bin at the deli) and the jalapenos were tart and hot and magnificent! But wait till you get this part-- it will only put you back $4.50... Peace on earth is possible with this sandwich. Tortas Los Portales para todo el mundo!

Cemitas carnitas is another hefty sandwich served on a fluffy chunk of hero (semolina) with: shredded cheese, chipotle peppers, lettuce, onion, avocado, and papalo (an herb related to cilantro, the name comes from the word papalotl, or native Nahuatl for butterfly). All for only $5.50!

Your inconspicuous ticket to tasty trevails in fronteras of Astoria/Long Island City.


Los Portales
25-08 Broadway, LIC (across the street from the blightful Blockbuster Video)
718.204.6736

...and yes, they do deliver.

Posted by Annie on Thursday, March 09, 2006 at 8:25 PM | Permalink