Clinton Street Baking Co: Now with 92% less waiting!
On his recent trip out east, my brother Robert and I ventured over to the LES to sample some of the home-grown breakfast fare at the highly touted Clinton Street Baking Company. It was a random Friday before noon and thus the ONLY time I have ever seen that little cubby hole of an eatery without a wait. That's right, I said it: NO WAIT. Giddy with our good luck and marvelous timing, we immediately snagged one of the half dozen coveted tables (the one by the window, no less!) and got comfy.
The Buttermilk Biscuit Sandwich. Tasty, but let's just say that without the bacon, it would have been a blander eggy-crumble. So shell out the extra $2.50 for the two criss-crossed strips. The cheddar was a bit oily and too mild, but now I'm just being nitpicky. The highlight was the homemade tomato jam-- bright and tangy like a Christmas sweater on an otherwise pallid little kid. Beautiful. But soaked into the crumbly biscuit a little much, making it slightly mushy. The side of home fries were spectacular: golden crunch around the edges, and without any of that crappy red-and-green-bell-pepper junk that most places use to spruce up sub-par potatoes. $10.50 (with bacon)
This is it. Alongside the fabled pancakes, the Brioche French Toast with roasted pecans and caramelized bananas is the raison d'etre for this place. Parfait! Robert wins this round by ordering the best french toast this side of Houston Street: its slightly crisp on the outside and buttery fluffy briochy on the inside. The maple butter served alongside is indispensible. Like Jack Tripper without Janet or Chrissy. The sweet compliment is made for drizzling over each toasty bite. No need for fruit or whipped cream or corn flake coatings, this masterpiece is perfect the way it is. $12
Overall food: A-
Truly tasty, but its not like the biscuits were descended from the hand of Jesus or something (which is what I was led to believe). The coffee was weak but above average. Tried one of their omelet skillet specials once (the "spanish scramble") and it was a bit insipid. The flavors were dissonant. I keep thinking that I should ditch the savory dishes and go for the sweet ones... pancakes next time!
The french toast behemoth was the real star. Having a liquor license (and thus breakfast cocktails) as well as an actual bakery counter is also a plus.
The service: B-
Besides the ludicrous lines and wait times, the wait staff seems overwhelmed in general. The food comes out quickly but rarely are you checked on again. I got my coffee refilled but not my water. You definately feel the push of their table turnover; its not the most relaxing nor leisurely of environments. If you plan on going for Sunday brunch, bring a message in a bottle, because you'll be marooned on Houston Street for hours while your friends chow down at El Sombrero.
The ambiance: B
Frenetic, energetic, and amiable but not convivial or warm. It's got heart, but right now it's totally enamored with being the popular kid so don't expect it to say hi to you in the hallways at school, ok?
Clinton Street Baking Company
4 Clinton Street (East Houston & Stanton), Lower East Side
646.602.6263
The Buttermilk Biscuit Sandwich. Tasty, but let's just say that without the bacon, it would have been a blander eggy-crumble. So shell out the extra $2.50 for the two criss-crossed strips. The cheddar was a bit oily and too mild, but now I'm just being nitpicky. The highlight was the homemade tomato jam-- bright and tangy like a Christmas sweater on an otherwise pallid little kid. Beautiful. But soaked into the crumbly biscuit a little much, making it slightly mushy. The side of home fries were spectacular: golden crunch around the edges, and without any of that crappy red-and-green-bell-pepper junk that most places use to spruce up sub-par potatoes. $10.50 (with bacon)
This is it. Alongside the fabled pancakes, the Brioche French Toast with roasted pecans and caramelized bananas is the raison d'etre for this place. Parfait! Robert wins this round by ordering the best french toast this side of Houston Street: its slightly crisp on the outside and buttery fluffy briochy on the inside. The maple butter served alongside is indispensible. Like Jack Tripper without Janet or Chrissy. The sweet compliment is made for drizzling over each toasty bite. No need for fruit or whipped cream or corn flake coatings, this masterpiece is perfect the way it is. $12
Overall food: A-
Truly tasty, but its not like the biscuits were descended from the hand of Jesus or something (which is what I was led to believe). The coffee was weak but above average. Tried one of their omelet skillet specials once (the "spanish scramble") and it was a bit insipid. The flavors were dissonant. I keep thinking that I should ditch the savory dishes and go for the sweet ones... pancakes next time!
The french toast behemoth was the real star. Having a liquor license (and thus breakfast cocktails) as well as an actual bakery counter is also a plus.
The service: B-
Besides the ludicrous lines and wait times, the wait staff seems overwhelmed in general. The food comes out quickly but rarely are you checked on again. I got my coffee refilled but not my water. You definately feel the push of their table turnover; its not the most relaxing nor leisurely of environments. If you plan on going for Sunday brunch, bring a message in a bottle, because you'll be marooned on Houston Street for hours while your friends chow down at El Sombrero.
The ambiance: B
Frenetic, energetic, and amiable but not convivial or warm. It's got heart, but right now it's totally enamored with being the popular kid so don't expect it to say hi to you in the hallways at school, ok?
Clinton Street Baking Company
4 Clinton Street (East Houston & Stanton), Lower East Side
646.602.6263
Maple butter! Good stuff, it is! It's like the butter that God would eat, if he weren't all made-up and stuff.
Posted by
Robert |
3:06 AM
Holy Brioche batman!
Posted by
floozigrl |
11:31 AM
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