Saturday, March 25, 2006

Lil' Bistro 33: more than a lil' delicious.

On a brisk Saturday afternoon last week we were lucky enough to join some friends for brunch at Lil' Bistro 33, an inconspicuously tiny restaurant in our neighborhood that can barely contain its boundless charm. Touted as french/asian fusion, this diminutive gem serves dinner every night except Mondays (closed), and now brunch on the weekends.
The restricted hours are a reflection of the bistro's homegrown sensibility-- it feels more like you're eating in Chef Gary's living room than in a commercial operation. Indeed the chef is making his magic not more than a few feet away from you in the boxcar-shaped kitchen with a cut-out counter (for additional seating and views of the culinary feats). And magic it is: Gary and his sushi chef Jasmine are the dynamic duo behind all the creations, from inception to execution. His inspired dishes seem to begin as just a sketchy idea, to be fleshed out through experimentation and careful artisanship, finally reaching your mouth in a crescendo of flavor and invention.
The brunch menu runs the gamut from comforting favorites (french toast) to innovative tributes to true fusion cuisine (bok choy could be a good side dish to the crispy tofu). The same is true of the dinner menu, where you could be chasing a duck confit salad appetizer with some curry vegetable tempura. The sushi menu is substantial, with lots of original special rolls, but take note: its only available Thurs-Sat nights. A good time to confirm their flexible and fresh menus is when you call in for reservations (highly recommended).

This was a special treat sent to us by the chef: panko-crusted fried goat cheese with an apricot sauce... we've had this before at a previous meal here at Lil' Bistro and I can say in all honesty that its my favorite amuse buche in the world. Like a crackhead, I might rob an old lady for another fix. The stout disk of goat cheese is rich, creamy, tart, and slightly warm from being fried. The consistency is pure food magic: its got integrity (not runny) but it literally melts in your mouth. The lightly crunchy crust (never greasy) holds it all in and makes the whole experience feel so marvelously guilty.

You're looking at the Seared Sesame Tuna Salad with bacon vinaigrette. ($12) This tasted just as good as it appears: the fresh tuna slices were tender and almost buttery in texture while the sesame crust gave it perfectly nutty flavor. The dressing was the actually the scene-stealer, with its tangy bacony zest that mingled the tuna ideally with the bed of greens underneath. Real smoky chunks of bacon. Sweetened vinaigrette. Soft seared tuna. You could never go back to pancakes for brunch again.

As a side, the crispy shredded potato sticks were both a fun and yummy solution to the typical too-filling homefries fiasco. I love my potato-based sides, but most of the time the mountain of bland starch (sometimes with a few pathetic green peppers, right?) you get only weighs down the entree. For a measely $2 this clever alternative keeps it light and crunchy, like skinny little kettle chips but better.

The real stand-out on this menu of imaginative delights was the Truffled Eggs and Salmon in Puff Pastry Bowl. The scrambled eggs were fluffy and made pleasantly earthly by the truffle oil, complimenting the delicate but large chunks of salmon as god intended. The puff pastry was flaky and buttery and did its part to hold its precious cargo. I especially liked piling a little mound of the shredded crisped potato in each bite to give it a little more of a salty crunch (I'm also guilty of tucking potato chips into my tuna sandwiches sometimes, don't hate me). Amazingly, this too only sets you back $12.

Most brunches aficionados know that the meal typically includes either a less-than sanguine bloody mary or a watery mimosa. But brunches here include the option of a Tokyo Sunrise, an ingenuious concoction of chilled sake, yuzu juice, OJ, and a little grenadine for that lovely sunrise. A sublime accompaniment to such innovative and delicious cuisine.


Lil' Bistro 33, 33-04 36th Avenue, Long Island City
718.609.1367 (be sure to make reservations!)

Thursday, March 23, 2006

Midtown's Hidden Cheap Eats: double-time action!

I resolved to explore a new stratum of midtown lunch options in and about Rockefeller Center as part of my ongoing battle against the overpriced mediocrity and fast food that had overrun this land of skyscrapers. Since I've exhausted most of the kabob/falafel carts in a 5-block radius, I decided to transition into brick-and-mortar establishments. But my criteria was twofold: it should be reletively cheap and absolutely quirky. So naturally I tried both a Jewish Uzbek place and a Punjabi buffet... who needs crappy Quizno's?

Here you'll find something more coveted than the millions of carats of diamonds packing every window front: hot and fresh homemade Glatt Kosher Uzbek cuisine.

First sign you're on the right track: the conspicuously long line of people who look like they're loitering in a stairwell. Because they are. Urgently.

More waiting...

Look for this window on the fourth floor. You should push your way past the tense, waiting queue. Look like you know what you're doing. Once you get the attention of someone on the other side of the hole, you only have a few seconds to blurt out your order-- they're insanely busy here. After you say something that sounds like "meat dumplings" or "kabob", wait nervously as they make it fresh and toss it to you. Of course if this is all a little harried for you, just join the queue to start the arduous wait for one of those coveted half a dozen tables.

This is what all ethnic, cheap, hand-held foods aspire for: the meat pie!! This incarnation is called the samsa but I can only muster one component sound: mmmmmm. Unlike the more familiar Indian samosa, this delicious little gift is not fried but baked. Its HUGE. The pastry shell is not as flaky as crunchy. The filling is serious stuff: minced (not ground) beef with lots and lots of sauteed onions. Another perfect partner for some hot sauce.

This is lepeshka, or Bukharian homemade bread. For $2 you get a hefty chunk (a quarter of a huge circular loaf) that is still warm and spongy on the inside but delightfully crusty on the outside. The skin is a little blistery and crackly like a sourdough, but thinner. If only they included some olive oil for dipping!!

The enduring favorite of Central Eurasia peoples: the manty (the Afghani incarnation is manto). These beautiful handmade dumplings are packed with savory beef, onions, peas, and other symphonic spices. Their delicate appearance betrays their savagely tasty inner nature; they virtually fall apart in your mouth to reveal a slow-cooked marvel that humbles any home chef. The only drawback? This dish calls in vain for real hot sauce.

Nestled between numerous nondescript delis and expensive sandwich/salad bars, this vegetarian haven in the middle of 45th Street is much bigger than it looks from the outside. The interior is modern and exceedingly clean, with a substantial pastry display tempting you the minute you enter. Keep walking and you get to a cozy dining area in the back, where you can get a $10.95 all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (including desserts and hot masala tea). Sadly, if you're one of a gazillion midtown office slaves that has no time for eating-in (welcome to my life), take pause at the large hot bar offering up endless combinations of Indian delight.

Half of the offerings at the take-out lunch buffet counter. From left to right: the hearty suki bhaji (potatoes with cashews, golden raisins, and coriander... spicy!), the tangy chana masala (my favorite! chickpeas and onions in a rich tomato based sauce), the fragrant kadhai paneer (homemade cheese cubes with peas and other veggies in a spicy creamy sauce), and the anchor of all Indian cuisine, dal dhokli. Unlike the watery, runny salty brown mess you get at most cheap Indian restaurants, the dal here is rich and savory with whole piles of dark lentils that gather on your naan as you dip. Its all spicy enough to warrant a cooling nip of raita but never overwhelming. For $4.99/lb, you'll lament the inherent weight of such satisfyingly rich foods (it can easily cost $8-$10 for a lunch so filling you might skip dinner). There's also the Lunch-To-Go special for $8 (best buy) that includes 2 vegetable entrees, dal or kadhi (thick sauce sometimes with pakoras), farshan (crispy fried snackies), sweets, paratha, rice, and pickle!!! Oh yeah, they even have half a dozen dosai.

Poori, the puffy crisp fried bread that forms the basis of many tasty chat (small bites or snacks). For a measely $5 you can get the Sev Poori: puffy bread stuffed with potato, onion, sweet & sour sauce and topped with sev (the crunchy, thready lentil noodles) and coriander leaves. All chat dishes are $5, except the Chutney Sandwich that tops the menu (consisting of potato, cucumber, tomato, onions, and coriander chutney). The strict vegetarianess of it all almost escapes you in the midst of all the yummy possibilities...


Taam Tov Glatt Kosher Restaurant, 46 W. 47th Street, 4th Floor (between 5th and 6th Aves but soon to be moving across the street to 41 w. 47th, 3rd Floor), Diamond District
212.768.8001

Sukhadia's Indian Vegetarian Gourmet, 17 W. 45th Street (between 5th and 6th Aves), Midtown (locations also in NJ and Chicago!)
212.395.7300

Johnny Walker Blues

As seen at the Johnny Walker Blue whiskey tasting event...




Monday, March 20, 2006

D&F Italian Deli: A sign that God loves us and wants us to eat cheese

I don't have an old Italian grandmother but if I did I'm sure she'd come and stock her pantry here. Conveniently located between the fabric store and the hardware store, all your imported gourmet food needs are met here. Be sure to go early because the ciabatta bread in the window tends to sell out early everyday.

The big shiny freezer case is home not only to "John's" brand of raviolis and pastas but also Casinelli as well as D&F's own pre-prepared dinners. Take home a veal scallopine and pretend that you can actually cook. My favorite is the spinach raviolis by Casinelli but John's artichoke ones are great too.

The Man himself. Gary leads a team of deli professionals who are all super awesome dudes: they're always smiling, knowledgeable and courteous and wield the chromed beast of the deli slicer with skill and love.

Look for the imported torrone (nougat) in the green box... and the fresh breadcrumbs behind the counter... and the Illy coffee... and the homemade basket cheese... and the big can of sardines in olive oil...

Cacciatores and sopressatas are so versatile that they function as interior decoration too. Cured meats grow on trees? No just from the little meat hooks that dot the space above the counters. Gary will tell you that "cacciatorini" means "little hunter" because the hunters of yore would pack these little meat snacks into their pockets for brief forays into the woods. Trail mix be damned. Cured meats AND an education!

Lightly salted mozzarella ball: still freshly squishy and warm to the touch. Note the bubbles and pockets. That's where the flavor's at.
(Tip: their best imported cheese is the Flor di Sardegna
which is my absolute favorite for picnicking-- its a sheep milk cheese that is crumbly, tart, dry, and salty... almost like an aged parmasean that melts in your mouth!)

"Polly-O" is thoroughly humiliated by this incredibly fresh and juicy mozzarella. The whey is still settling out of the cheese and the slices are so springy that they squeak against your teeth.


D&F Italian Deli, 35-13 Broadway, Astoria
718.728.2422 (YES they do catering!)

Thursday, March 16, 2006

All in the Family

Let's say you're as lucky as we are and live in Astoria. One Tuesday night it occurs to you that you urgently need some mochi ice cream (green tea flavor of course), a bamboo sushi mat, MSG-coated salt, BOSS coffee drink, squid jerky, Tokyo-action-video rentals (!) and of course a shiso leaf. Its midnight. What the hell do you do? Take a leisurely stroll down to Family Market, of course! Pictured here is but one of their cornucopia of Japanese delights: CalorieMate balanced food block. Only 400 calories, block-shaped to boot and available until 1am, seven days a week.


Family Market Japanese Convenience Store, 29-15 Broadway (across the street from Crap Town supermarket), Astoria
718.956.7925

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

FilmChefs: the blockbuster hit of the year...in my belly.

A few hungry Astorians set out for a gratifying lunch one gusty afternoon. They found themselves at Jonathan Forgash's outpost of culinary delight in Long Island City, conveniently nestled between half a dozen train lines and the Silvercup Studios. Sure, they deliver. But why not just invite 25 friends over for their catering magic?

This expansive torpedo of foil-paper-wrapped sandiwichy goodness is how you'll get your hot sub. Big, sleek and shiny, its a lot cheaper than a sportscar. And tastier.

Jonathan's fabled Cubano Melt in detail: roast pork, ham, swiss, garlic mayonnaise (this is seriously great schmear), pickles, and hot peppers. I am an evangelical follower of the cult of the cubano and this was one of the best I've ever devoured. It can convert anyone with its juicy pork accentuated with crisp tart pickles and peppers. Where does the melty cheese end and the mad garlicky mayo begin? It doesn't matter, don't question the Cubano.

The Turkey Club Melt was Meg's wise choice: fresh roasted turkey, bacon, swiss, and mayo on an italian hero. What can melty savory cheese not do? The answer is nothing.

The Key Lime pie is the perfect tangy yet rich finish. There's also apple and pecan varieties, chocolate cake or fruit plates depending on availability (and space in your belly).

The space is really bright and relaxing while not sacraficing efficiency and still being incredibly accessible. A big wall of windows flanked by more counterspace seating is facing 43rd Ave and brings in so much light that the room feels much bigger than it might be. They've got tons of daily specials (next time I get a chance I will do the soups) as well as reliable favorites written up on consecutive backboards. On a blustery day like this, this warm inviting spot with its gracious host was a welcome respite from an otherwise blah Wednesday.

FilmChefs, 43-01 21st Street, Long Island City
718.956.0725

The Orchid Thief


I was never a flower aficionado. Sure, they're pretty but most bouquets are just as nice as others (barring the use of the dreaded carnation)... aren't they? I mean, they eventually die anyways. And everyone can agree that wearing floral patterns is OUT. But then I read a bit of Susan Orlean's New Yorker piece on how the most sensuous of these plants are obtained and trafficked (infamously immortalized by the film 'Adaptation'). Could the source of honeybee attraction be anything more than watercolory pastel pastiches? I went to the New York Botanical Garden's breathtaking Orchid Show and found the answer is yes. [I've included the tag names where I could, following the picture]. And no, I did not steal any.




Brassolaeliocattleya, or Wanda's Fire "Orange Delight".

Miltassia, or Charles M. Fitch "Izumi".

Ludisia discolor jewel orchid.

Phalaenopsis moth orchid.

Paphiopedilum Saint Swithin type of slipper orchid.

Odontocidium Wildcat "Green Valley" type of American Moth orchid.

Thunbergia mysorensis,the mysore clockvine.

Oncidium Twinkle "Whitecap" or, dancing ladies orchid.

Vuylstekeara cambria "Noyo"



Mo Pitkin's satisfies

Sunday night cries out for kosher fusion comfort food. So we answered the call, along with our friends Pham, Amy and Adam and headed over to Mo's House of Satisfaction in Adam's new neighborhood. They've got a respectable bar in front, true. But venture past it into the cozy dining room and settle into the vintage booths-- if only in preparation for your own upcoming Neo-Seder. When we went the place was all ours: empty except for a few grizzly evillage locals lurking in the shadows like film extras. And the host that looked like pre-makeover Jack Osbourne.

Did you think you'd had the most delicious fries in the world already? I did. Then we ordered the insane Manchego Garlic Fries side dish and suddenly there was a paradigm shift. Golden crispy from the subtle coating of manchego cheese, these things use the slivers of garlic to transcend normal potato finger foods and enter the realm of mythical. Heart disease be damned!

These monsters of crustacea, the Shrimp al Ajillo might seem like they were going to conquer Amy, but don't let appearances fool you. This girl knows how to eat and made short work of these jumbo shrimp.

Pham's enviable order of Grilled Skirt Steak with chimichurri served with fries isn't exactly what your bubby would serve at Passover but damn it was good.

Adam got the Rotisserie Kosher Chicken served with a side of scallion cream cheese mashed potatoes au jus. He battled valiantly and devoured most of the bird uninterrupted by his Blackberry so I must assume it was delicious. And kosher!

A new level of cuban sandwich art: Mo's Cuban Reuben sandwich. For a substantial $12 you get this fabulous study in fusion, the bastard lovechild of the porky cubano with the zestly reuben. Thick-cut bacon, shredded pork, corned beef, sauerkraut, melty cheese, pickles, and Russian dressing. The bread is good but barely stands up to the load. If you think you're ready for this, think again. Not for the faint of heart (or the kosher of diet). But rewarding for those who are willing. Reheats well the next day (normal human usually eat only half, I think).

Naturally you get a few gelt with your check at the end of the meal. It has nothing to do with pirates, as I've learned... so who cares if Uncle Mo was a real person when you get chocolate coins at the end?

Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction, 34 Avenue A (between 2nd and 3rd streets), East Village
212.777.5660

Monday, March 13, 2006

Springtime calling....?

As seen sprouting from the front yard of the Davidson homestead (soon to be vacated) in Copiague, Long Island.

Vamos ala Mercadito

Although my legendary Search for the Best Burrito in NYC ended without much fanfare a couple of years ago, the lure of authentic fish tacos drew my vulnerable side out once again to venture in Alphabet City for the much-touted Mercadito.

I've been hurt before. My disappointment ran the gamut from the exorbitantly expensive to the cheap and mediocre rice-filled abominations of the East Village. Rosa Mexicana was a wretched whore who tempted this displaced Angeleno with the promise of real mexican food but only broke my heart with criminally overpriced gringo facsimiles. Burritoville was a leukwarm attempt at the burrito arts, as was San Loco. Let's not even talk about the ubiquitous Fresca Tortillas run by well-meaning but not-Mexican Chinese people.

I only struck gold when I moved to Astoria and discovered the truest taquerias in Nueva York (see posting on Los Portales). Since then I have been more forgiving and here I am, willing to try what is rumored to be "pricey" Mexican fare... if only because the elusive fish taco is still like a sasquatch around here: mythical but never convincing.

Here is what we found at this East Village bastion... Most notable is the fact that this place is not of the hearty burrito type. This place doesn't dish up a sea of rice and beans with anything because the portions are small and meant to be like tapas and shared amongst dining companions. Average cost of the taco platters are $10-$15 for four petite works of art. Not unreasonable but definately not Chipotle fare. Its worth remembering that they also serve brunch... and that they have an awesome sounding "All You Can Eat" taco proposition after 11pm on selected nights. $20 gets you all the tacos you can bear. See you there.

You thought you knew what a margarita was. But perhaps we should all stop embarassing ourselves (as well as Jimmy Buffett) and think outside the box. Pictured here is the Margarita Tres Citricos with Torada tequila anejo, orange, grapefruit and lemon juices, and... get this, HABANERO chiles! Total genius. My husband was ballsy enough to actually take a bit out of the garnishing habanero straddling the glass and yeah lets say thats some authentic pepper action. It brought out the tang of the citrus triplet and in turn was made spicier by the acidity of the juices. The fine tequila drew them all together with its smooth but volatile finish.
[Not pictured: my Margarita de Pepino with Torada, cucumber, chile de arbol and scant lime. On the other end of the spectrum of spice: not hot but kicky and tempered with the coolness of the cucumber. Its got a goofy spa-like feel to it and I think the Oasis Day Spa should start serving this along with those massages.]

The space is so warm and intimate you almost feel like a massage is in order, not plates of delectable mexican food. The front dining space is narrow for the bar (mas tequila mas) but walk a bit further and down the back stairs and you get to a little sunken dining room lined with high windows that they open in the summer. The tables are cozy with concrete benches lining the walls. The vibe is classy but not snooty at all.

Avocado Lovers Unite!! Under the banner of this Three Guacamole Tasting I believe that world peace is attainable. Experience this:
1) tradicional: the simplest most beautiful expression of love.
2) mango: jicama is also hidden in here for crunch. A wonderful pairing that brings out the nuttiness of what we from the West call green gold
3) pina: the most complex of the trio, containing pineapple, habanero, tomatillo and mint. It was like falling in love all over again. There was no flavor conflict and the mint was so subtle yet integral to the refreshing quality; it totally complimented the spike of habanero and the slippery acidity of the tomatillo. Pineapple wins!

The sleeper hit of the evening: Three Ceviche Tasting!! This sampler was a splurge (setting you back $23 or so) but what the hell, its ceviche and if you want anything done right, its this. The chefs at Mercadito do not fail. The dishes are served with a slight nod to the traditional-- baked crackers. We chose:
1) camaron: shrimp, pico de gallo con pina and tomato in a jalapeno broth. The amazing flavor sensation was the pinapple pico de gallo since it brought out an unrivaled sweetness in the shrimp.
2) atun: tuna, mango, onion, chive and jicama in a chipotle broth. Now I love tuna in all its incarnations (yes even Star Kist form) but this is in the Tuna Hall of Fame for its amazing texture diced with jicama. Unfortunately the mango was lost in the smokiness of the chipotle. The tune should be spared from being diced into such small cubes...
3) dorado: mahi mahi, avocado and tomato with chile de arbol broth. The simple elegance of this ceviche is only half of the allure. The mahi mahi is cut in bigger fleshier chunks than the atun and that makes all the difference. Besides, the broth should be catagorized as an addictive substance; help me I am a ceviche junky.

Tacos de cochinita pibil, literally translated to mean phenomenal banana leaf-steamed achiote pork bits with cured onions and salsa verde. In practice, you could just call it sublime. These were everything we had hoped: smoked porky goodness paired with the pickly tartness of crunchy onions. How do I mainline this dish?

This is what we've been waiting for. The fish tacos (tacos estilo baja) have finally arrived. This fabled beauty consists of beer-battered fish (market choice of the day) topped with mexican "cole slaw" and drizzled with chive-habanero aioli. My level of salivation would have boggled Pavlov's mind. Verdict: terrific. Not necessarily autentico but whatever, New Yorkers can't be choosers about this one. The fish was perfectly crispy and flaky and perky from the aioli. The underwhelming "cole slaw" was probably the weakest link since we are purists and believe that it didn't contribute so much more than a nice traditional mound of fresh raw cabbage would have. All in all, crowned Best Fish Taco in New York City.

Ah Tres Leches cake... is your deliciousness unrelenting? Frankly it was yummy but forgettable (I prefer a creamier tres leches; this one was a bit crumbly and light) and although I'm sure the desserts in general are great (flan is another staple represented), I would recommend forgoing them next time for more tacos.

We ended with a tequila like no other: Agavero. This is no kin to your cheap college body-shots days. This stuff is buttery and rich; my husband commented that it acts more like a scotch than a tequila. Hailing from the exotic mountains of Jalisco, Mexico, perhaps its the secret ingredient that sparks up this distillation of blue agave: "essence of damiana flower"? Whatever it is, it was boozetastic!

Mercadito, 179 Avenue B (between 11th and 12th streets), East Village
212.529.6493

Thursday, March 09, 2006

Los Portales-- El mas sabrosa!

This is what draws you in: a fogged-up, grease-splattered storefront window that gives you a peek into the savory simmering setting inside.

Upon closer inspection, you're treated to the splendid aromas that come wafting out of this thing. I don't know what its called but this shallow vat of bubbling meats and veggies was constantly being hand-tended by an attentive chef who was stirring and adding and replenishing ingredients as things cooked down. If you had an abuelita, this is how she would probably do it. The fragrant layers of slow-braised pork and browning onions were almost too much to handle and I almost jumped over the counter.

Horchata-fest! This mexican sweetened rice milk drink is really the only accompaniment to the chipotle-infused flavors. Although the taqueria also serves a full selection of Jarritos, we didn't see any cervezas on the menu.

I fervently believe that every meal's first course should be authentic tacos. Pictured here are the tacos con chorizo (background) and tacos con suadero (broiled veal flank!). It is not hyperbole to say that the suadero was the best taco I've had in New York City. Yeah yeah "immobilized baby cow" arguments aside, this dish is amazing. I am convinced that if the baby cow could know that its destiny was fulfilled in perfection of this type, it would hop right into the tortilla itself. Calves are loving. And juicy. And at Los Portales, they are honored in the highest form of praise: the taco. The chorizo was also a smashing hit. Not too salty, not too oily, it would have been great even with the counter-intuitive 'con huevos' option! Even the cebollita (the grilled sweet spring onion) served with these tacos was tasty. $1.50 a piece, sucka.

Hot sauces are to food what George Michael was to Wham!-- essential for color and seasoning, taken for granted, and sometimes show-stoppers unto themselves. These are no exception. The salsa verde was piquant and yummy, but the red chipotle sauce was the real flaming star: smokey, spicy, thick and peppery. I tried to sneak some into my handbag but the waitress was looking.

The majestic Torta Al Pastor reigns over my tastebuds. Along with the spicy pork, this delicious king of mexican sandwiches is stuffed with lettuce, tomato, onions, cheese, and pickled jalapenos. Everything I've ever dreamed of in life is encapsulated in this hand-held beauty. The spicy pork is not so hot that you can't taste the roasted chipotles it in which it was cooked. The queso blanco is gentle but holds its own in this complex flavor bonanza. The lettuce was crisp (not that wilty shredded crap at the bottom of the bin at the deli) and the jalapenos were tart and hot and magnificent! But wait till you get this part-- it will only put you back $4.50... Peace on earth is possible with this sandwich. Tortas Los Portales para todo el mundo!

Cemitas carnitas is another hefty sandwich served on a fluffy chunk of hero (semolina) with: shredded cheese, chipotle peppers, lettuce, onion, avocado, and papalo (an herb related to cilantro, the name comes from the word papalotl, or native Nahuatl for butterfly). All for only $5.50!

Your inconspicuous ticket to tasty trevails in fronteras of Astoria/Long Island City.


Los Portales
25-08 Broadway, LIC (across the street from the blightful Blockbuster Video)
718.204.6736

...and yes, they do deliver.

that crrrrrazy apple is mad as hell and he's not gonna take it anymore.

As lifted off the Gothamist site...
This means the crazy apple will invariably become the de facto mascot in the coming revolutions (designated to kickoff at the gilded gates of Gramercy Park, as we've established on many an occasion).


Photo taken by Neil Epstein.

Wednesday, March 08, 2006

bay leaves drying in the kitchen

"you must answer to get help"

Doodle a cock... for a good cause

Satisfy your inner artiste at this fun site while raising awareness for cute smutty cartoons... your own version of a johnson immortalized in doodle.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

This train is not in service...

...the MTA just likes to torture rush hour commuters by having it sit fallow in the station. Doors open. Empty train. Full platform. Baited breath... when can we start the ceremonial Battle-For-Seats, they ask.

I myself turned right back around to go outside and walk to the 49th Street N station.

Monday, March 06, 2006

Heinz sauce mit exotica

As seen on the back shelves of the Heliopolis deli on Broadway (my local source for some real delectable homemade spankopita). What is this and how would Germans use it?

Saturday, March 04, 2006

Mundotastic!!

In lieu of traveling to Turkey, Argentina, Brazil, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean, we instead decided to go the easy route and visit this little restaurant down the street from us. For $60 (food, drinks, and desserts for two!), it turned out to be a cheaper and much more accessible alternative to booking tickets to Ankara. Especially when you can either order many small plates to share (as we did) or get more traditional entrees like the crab burger.

Mundo, 31-18 Broadway, Astoria (the entrance is on 32nd street, around the corner from the deli)
718.777.2829

The tastiness of this dish is matched only by its awesome name: the Red Sonja. Lame Schwarzenegger movie jokes aside (Brigitte Nielsen was the real star), these red lentil patties are so kickass they could beat your little brother up. They are a mixture of mashed red lentils, bulgur, scallions, parsley, and "oriental spices" that is surprisingly soft and served at room temperature on a lettuce bed. Be sure to squeeze the lemon wedge on and then eat it like a little lettuce wrap. So good that I'm having tastebud flashbacks right now. mmmmmm

Displayed here are the crazy delicious innards of the Brazilian Coxinha, or chicken croquette with "catupiry cheese". Whatever cheese this is, I need 6 lbs of it right away, it was that good. The outside shell of the croquette was perfectly golden, fried and crunchy. The chicken was tender and impeccably seasoned. Sleeper ingredient: a thin insulating layer of potato!

The Pearl Barley salad was fantastic. I am already working on emulating this at home. It contains barley, roasted red bell peppers, celery, corn, green bell peppers, dill, parsley, fresh mint, and... middle eastern pickles!! This is very high on my list of favorite salad mashups.

Crab Artichoke Dip! Winner of my Award for Best Usage of a Tart baking crock. Wonderfully savory. Served with little toasted pita triangles.

Okay so this was the most delicious dessert but you can't tell from my crappy picture-- I couldn't capture the toothy sweetness of the warm semolina-and-cheese balls mingled with the smooth cool creaminess of the vanilla custard. You have to experience this: the Pasha Mundo, its called. Just don't go by this picture.

Toasted Almond Cake!! So decadent, I met my marscapone quota for the year. The amarettini were perfectly saturated and the toasted nuts on top were the perfect finish; it just cries out for some espresso. Next time, Mundo, next time.

My Neighborhood-- Part Deux

Sleet and freezing rain.
Slick patches.
Sleepy bodegas ("BUDegas"?).
Weathered lawn statues depicting catholic saints I don't know.
Old folks hobbling cautiously.
Basements with bellies of fire.
The "Cretans Association": members only.






German woman posing as Brazilian Girl at Polish National Home

As seen at the Warsaw, Greenpoint, Brooklyn.



Friday, March 03, 2006

Comida Columbiana de Jasmin

A fellow astorian turned me on to this local Columbian joint for its arepas. I wasn't expecting much more than a small storefront cafe but was delighted to find a real cozy little restaurant snuggled amid 34th avenue bodegas and veterinary clinics, ready to greet my hungry belly.

Jasmin Restaurant
32-20 34 Avenue, Long Island City
718.472.9066

A handpainted sign proclaims my target for a wintery lunchtime treat in the neighborhood.

The space inside is a warmly decorated room replete with cute faux roofing over a counter over which you can order take out. The feeling is earnest and welcoming; my host was gracious and attentive. He wore a suit. There are only four tables but ample elbow room. Potted plants from the Home Depot hang from the walls. A warm oasis on a frigid afternoon.

I'm now entering my "mora batido con leche" phase. This entails ordering the blackberry shake (with milk of course, not water) whenever I can, preferably while eating fried latin foods. The man at Jasmin obviously knew this about me and gave me an additional cup of shake-runneth-over (the paper cup) and I was happy.

The "hot sauce" vat: always key in any meal. This one was more like a picante sauce with lots of vinegar so naturally I drowned my food in it. Super good.

Areparrific! Although it technically is not on the menu, I just asked the man if he could put stuff on my arepa-- you know, 'the works'!! Here's what I got: a marvelously hearty but surprisingly light corn masa "pancake" topped with refried pinto beans, avocado, chorizo, and chicharrones. The latter part I actually didn't like too much; fried beef fat sounds good in theory but is tough chewing in practice. Otherwise, the chorizo was savory and the beans were zesty. Next time I will specifically order it with some queso.