lost in the supermarket

Falling in Love Again

2007-11-09T10:43:00.000-05:00

Kerouac's reading overlaid on Woody Allen's Manhattan: enough to make you forget all of the city's transgressions and grotesqueness in favor of her lovely luminous loneliness...

Beijing III: The Forbidden City

2007-08-12T19:32:00.000-04:00

Yeah. No kidding.

Hazy central courtyard when you first walk in. The white marble meridian was the emperor's path and the only point upon which his feet touched the ground. Though word on the street is that Marco Polo got to walk it. Note that the largest, most-grandiose structure on the horizon is closed for renovation.

Detail of the giant doors at the gates between courtyards.

The "rank" and class distinction of each building in the city center is rated and displayed using what I call the "little-fanciful-animals-on-the-roof" system. The sequence of mythical creatures is static and only the number of figures indicates rank: the more figures, the higher the rank of that particular address. The only building with nine (the most divine and highest rank) animals is the central temple in the Forbidden City. Most concubines got 3 or 4 on their roofs.

Robert flexing with mom in the imperial garden.

Some more humble corners of the vast imperial palace have yet to see renovation... perhaps retaining some faded charm?

Gold plated vats were used to store rain water for extinguishing fires in the Forbidden City (built of all-wood and lit by oil lamps, the buildings often fell victim to destructive conflagrations). The scraped marks are those famously left by the Allied Forces of the Eight Powers when they occupied Beijing post-Qing dynasty; the "barbarians" of the west proceeded to plunder all the riches of the middle kingdom's capital, including using their bayonets to scratch even the plated gold off these urns. Some bookish types out there suggest that this helps to explain some of China's intransigent attitudes toward outside political involvement today... gee, ya think?

Beijing II: The Great Wall at Mutianyu

2007-08-12T19:10:00.001-04:00

Early on a Sunday morning at the beginning of June, our trip to the Great Wall of China was almost derailed when the van my mother chartered through friends broke down. Temporarily demoralized, we sulked in the lobby of our courtyard house hostel. It was only through Ginger's quick thinking, a few hundred RMB, and the goodwill of the staff of the Red Lantern House that we were able to hire another van, complete with driver--who was willing to shuttle a carload of tourists on his precious day off. We set out for the Great Wall at Mutianyu, a paltry 1-2 hours drive from the east side of the city.

Though it is only about 90 kilometers from (and just outside the Sixth Ring of) Beijing, the route up to this stretch of the Great Wall seems a world away from any urban center. On the way, I leaned out the window of the aging Toyota's back seat and captured some of my favorite images of a changing China and the indomitable spirit of the people who live here.

Ancient remnants of communist proclamations and advertisements are more numerous once you leave the city proper. A lot of property is available out here, and the ubiquity of phone numbers painted up on every wall remind you that anything is for rent/sale.

The rural lunch hour is comprised of these shabby roadside canteens, complete with sprinklings of local patrons sitting at hodgepodge outdoor tables. No shirt, no shoes? No problem. We didn't have time to stop, but I am certain that the food here would be delicious.

Many little grocers flank the one-lane highway. I love the little kids and their versions of the Big Wheel trike.

This man, capable of competing with the best of the Tour de France--without performance-enhancing drugs and with a cartload of produce in tow, mind you--kept pace with our car for a small distance.

These women seem like old friends (or rivals?) They are some of the few people who seem to stand still amidst China's whirlwind of perpetual progress and modernization.

Once you get to the foothills, you can spend most of the day just climbing up to the Wall, or you can join the bourgeoisie in taking the cable car up. Afterall, the ascent is great, but you want to have enough time to actually traverse the wall before nightfall!

A stretch of the Great Wall that is known for its accessibility to most levels of hikers, Mutianyu can however be a steep (but unprecarious) climb in some spots.

Inside the lower level of each of the watchtowers are a series of intricate archways and rooms--built long before the Medieval cousins of which we first think...

Wide group shot from atop a watchtower.

A local resident of the Wall, a cartoony green bug, looked incredulously down on the rest of us before flying away.

You can now pay to take a toboggan ride down from the Great Wall. Incredible fun! My mother, an adventurer at heart, was a great sport and joined us in sliding down the German-made giant metal track. This was definitely the funnest part of the excursion; so much so that we went back up via cable car just to slide back down a second time (sans my mother, who had her fill).

Here's a video that Eric took of the ride down.

A man (with the same surname as my family!) at the foot of the Wall, hand-carving a chop to order-- with my Chinese name on it. I think it cost about 180 RMB, which comes out to less than $25 USD.

The trip up to the Great Wall was incredibly strenuous for my brother Kevin.

The Lobster Roll (Lunch)

2007-08-10T21:24:00.000-04:00

Like the multitudes of citydwellers every sweltering summer, we recently made that ritualistic pilgrimage out to the East End of Long Island for our Hamptons/Montauk weekend (my first time out there!!). Because we're more about the lowly food stands and beaches than the clubby celebrity-sighting East Hamptons scene, the unassuming but legendary Lobster Roll restaurant was naturally our first stop. Affectionately known as just "Lunch", this place is for many a destination unto itself, for its simple, fresh seasonal seafood specials.

It's easy enough to spot the fabled sign and lonesome building; just be sure to stop by early since the lines can get long later in the day.

The Fried Soft Shell Crab Roll is really just a whole batter-fried soft shell crab slapped on a flimsy little hamburger bun. Simple, tasty, fried-but-not-greasy, and served with lettuce, tomato, and a tangy tartar sauce for dipping. $11.95.

The eponymous Lobster Roll: gorgeous, meaty, buttery, and packed with an extraordinary volume of pink fleshy goodness. The mayonnaise was not overwhelming but substantial (necessary in my opinion). The hot dog bun was probably the biggest disappointment for me personally: untoasted store-bought generic pale doughy stuff.

For the purists, this is the only true vehicle for the lobster salad. But I'm already thinking, "Would it kill you to use a nice crusty ciabatta roll, or a fluffy country potato roll?" Especially since the market price for this little delicacy was a not-insignificant $17. Of course, I am the same person that prefers provolone to Cheez Whiz on my philly cheese steaks... so you can make the call.

All in all, a simple summer pleasure, showcasing the sweet lobster--unadorned and unfettered with fancy shit.

The Lobster Roll (Lunch)
Napeague Stretch, 1980 Montauk Highway between Amagansett and Montauk
631.267.3740
Open only seasonally (June to September)

No Sleep 'Till...

2007-08-10T21:15:00.000-04:00

Beastie Boys' First Show Ever in Brooklyn. McCarren Pool.

More pictures at my Flickr

Not Chinese: Zucchini Fritters

2007-07-25T21:29:00.000-04:00

Zucchini Fritters
5 various squashes, including patty pan! (about 1 1/4 pounds), grated
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup chopped fresh Italian (broadleaf) parsley
1 cup freshly grated pecorino/romano cheese
1 cup (scant) breadcrumbs
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Vegetable oil (for frying)

Yogurt Dip
plain yogurt (FAGE brand!)
scallions
squeeze of lemon
drizzle of olive oil
white pepper

Toss zucchini, onion and salt in large colander. Let stand 1 hour; squeeze
as dry as possible. Transfer mixture to large bowl (do not rinse!) Beat eggs in bowl and then mix in next five ingredients.

Pour vegetable oil into heavy large saucepan to depth of 1 inch. Attach
deep-fry thermometer to side of saucepan; heat oil over medium-high heat to 350°F.
Working in batches, shape zucchini-onion mixture by tablespoonfuls into balls. Add
to hot oil. Fry in batches until fritters are brown, turning once, about 3 minutes
total. Using slotted spoon, transfer fritters to paper towels to drain. Transfer
to platter. Sprinkle with sea salt and serve with yogurt dip.

Please Be Cautious

2007-07-25T10:50:00.001-04:00

At the Forbidden Palace, Beijing, China

Beijing hutong marketplace

2007-06-11T23:15:00.000-04:00

We happened upon a sprawling outdoor market on our second day. Hidden in the expansive heart of a byzantine hutong near our hostel, this bazaar had a huge covered hangar for the produce, bordered by little prepared food and butchery stalls. On one end it drew itself through a gauntlet of junk dealers and into an open courtyard jammed with tables of treasure masquerading as communist-era surplus knick-knacks. This is a corner of Beijing that I hope most will survive the imminent bulldozers, and these are some of the faces that I hope will survive Beijing rising.

Stand aside, Gilroy: almost all of the garlic available in supermarkets today is grown in China.

Eggs and more eggs. A staple of the Chinese diet, the delicious ova from a variety of animals (quail, duck, pheasant, etc) can be found preserved (thousand-year old egg, anyone?), pickled, smoked, hard-boiled or just raw. Look closely at the sample in the front, cracked open for your perusal.

Pickle Heaven! Not only a clever method of preserving surplus produce, pickled veggies are also deeeelicious, briny, crunchy, sweet and sour gems from the gods.

Forget about the sterile tetra-pak blocks of bland bean curd from your supermarket... this is TOFU. You can smell its freshness, hand-made and blocked and sliced to order. Vegetarians of the world, you have these people to thank for perfecting the art of vegetable protein.

A wealthier woman and her shopping companion.

This man is rolling out his wheat dough for hand-cut noodles. In Mandarin, handmade noodles (made traditionally and most impressively without the assistance of a knife) are called soh-la-mien, or literally "hand-pulled noodles". More simply found on menus: la-mien.

Unlike their American counterparts, Chinese children actually interact with food in all its rudimentary forms. Its a facile and intimate knowledge born out of humble markets like this one. Needless to say, I LOVE his little velcro panda shoes.

Beijing rising

2007-06-11T23:03:00.000-04:00

Tune in, kids... we're back from the Middle Kingdom, and ready to show and tell.

Family.
As seen out the car window, en route to the Great Wall at Mutianyu.
June 3, 2007.

Waffle House

2007-06-11T22:46:00.000-04:00

Orlando, Florida, USA.
April 2007.
Yes, I ate this stuff.
And yes, it was delightfully, magically mediocre.

Viva Mexico

2007-02-22T21:49:00.000-05:00

Luis Tigre (or someone playing his accordion), as seen on the N train.

men are the new women

2007-02-22T21:44:00.000-05:00

As seen on the Bowery while waiting in a long ass line to not get into 11 Spring Street...Brought to you by the Most Official Bitches.

A timeless classic: Muppets Take the Subway

2007-02-22T09:41:00.000-05:00

Hey Mister DJ

2007-02-08T20:33:00.000-05:00

So if you're smart, you'll come to see mad fresh DJ Lo-Fi twirl some tunes and thrown down the funk this weekend. In Astoria, fool!

But then you whine, "Ehhhh I don't know where he's playing, nor how to get there!!"
So I slap you upside the head and say:
Hell Gate Social.
12-21 Astoria Blvd.
N/W to Astoria Blvd, walk toward the East River.

So you start crying like a little little baby, "But WHEN this weekend? I'm soooooo busy doing weeeeird stuff as usual!"
Then I stab you in your neck and proclaim:
Saturday Feb 10.
9:30pm.

Thinking you're clever, you tearfully blurt out, "Buuuuut I can't pay a cover!"
To which I respond:
NO COVER.
And then I skull-fuck you.
You know, in the eye sockets and stuff. With a broken bottle.

And that makes little JazzyJeff and the FP really sad. Just do what's best for everyone and come on Saturday to dance dance dance your ass off.

So guns must be the answer, right?

2007-01-16T13:24:00.000-05:00

From yesterday's New York Times:

"After more than 50 years of stability, federal and state prison populations skyrocketed from under 200,000 persons in 1970 to more than 1.3 million in 2002. That year, our imprisonment rate rose above 600 inmates per 100,000 adults. With the inclusion of an additional 700,000 inmates in jail, we now incarcerate more than two million people — resulting in the highest incarceration number and rate in the world, five times that of Britain and 12 times that of Japan."

Full Op-Ed piece on America's wacked-out "mental health system" (read: "incarceration fetish") here

Tournesol: A bit of Left Bank this side of the East River

2007-01-06T22:05:00.000-05:00

Clinton Street Baking Co: Now with 92% less waiting!

2006-12-14T15:23:00.000-05:00

On his recent trip out east, my brother Robert and I ventured over to the LES to sample some of the home-grown breakfast fare at the highly touted Clinton Street Baking Company. It was a random Friday before noon and thus the ONLY time I have ever seen that little cubby hole of an eatery without a wait. That's right, I said it: NO WAIT. Giddy with our good luck and marvelous timing, we immediately snagged one of the half dozen coveted tables (the one by the window, no less!) and got comfy.

The Buttermilk Biscuit Sandwich. Tasty, but let's just say that without the bacon, it would have been a blander eggy-crumble. So shell out the extra $2.50 for the two criss-crossed strips. The cheddar was a bit oily and too mild, but now I'm just being nitpicky. The highlight was the homemade tomato jam-- bright and tangy like a Christmas sweater on an otherwise pallid little kid. Beautiful. But soaked into the crumbly biscuit a little much, making it slightly mushy. The side of home fries were spectacular: golden crunch around the edges, and without any of that crappy red-and-green-bell-pepper junk that most places use to spruce up sub-par potatoes. $10.50 (with bacon)

This is it. Alongside the fabled pancakes, the Brioche French Toast with roasted pecans and caramelized bananas is the raison d'etre for this place. Parfait! Robert wins this round by ordering the best french toast this side of Houston Street: its slightly crisp on the outside and buttery fluffy briochy on the inside. The maple butter served alongside is indispensible. Like Jack Tripper without Janet or Chrissy. The sweet compliment is made for drizzling over each toasty bite. No need for fruit or whipped cream or corn flake coatings, this masterpiece is perfect the way it is. $12

Overall food: A-
Truly tasty, but its not like the biscuits were descended from the hand of Jesus or something (which is what I was led to believe). The coffee was weak but above average. Tried one of their omelet skillet specials once (the "spanish scramble") and it was a bit insipid. The flavors were dissonant. I keep thinking that I should ditch the savory dishes and go for the sweet ones... pancakes next time!
The french toast behemoth was the real star. Having a liquor license (and thus breakfast cocktails) as well as an actual bakery counter is also a plus.

The service: B-
Besides the ludicrous lines and wait times, the wait staff seems overwhelmed in general. The food comes out quickly but rarely are you checked on again. I got my coffee refilled but not my water. You definately feel the push of their table turnover; its not the most relaxing nor leisurely of environments. If you plan on going for Sunday brunch, bring a message in a bottle, because you'll be marooned on Houston Street for hours while your friends chow down at El Sombrero.

The ambiance: B
Frenetic, energetic, and amiable but not convivial or warm. It's got heart, but right now it's totally enamored with being the popular kid so don't expect it to say hi to you in the hallways at school, ok?

Clinton Street Baking Company
4 Clinton Street (East Houston & Stanton), Lower East Side
646.602.6263

juicing without a permit

2006-12-12T23:06:00.000-05:00

As seen posted on the closed doors of the Union Square Jamba Juice. Perhaps the city has found an unlikely source of illicit trans fats? Mmmmm deep fried smoothie...

napping on orchard street

2006-12-12T22:51:00.000-05:00

Not beautiful enough to work at the American Apparel store behind him. Not dapper enough to shop at BBlessing, a block down. Not hip enough to eat at Zucco, accross the street. Not affluent enough to live at the Avalon Chrystie Place. He is the forgotten Lower East Side, and he has a plastic soup jug tied around his neck in case you can spare some change.

Pigeon pancake

2006-12-12T22:48:00.000-05:00

As seen in the middle of the intersection, Allen Street and Houston, the Lower East Side.

Mississippi. Fuggedaboutit.

2006-12-05T15:29:00.000-05:00

From those snarky kids at Gawker, a new reason to book your next vacation in the nation's least literate state:

And their inspired rebuttal:

I think david Berkowitz might just be a better mascot for state tourism than Faith Hill. And everyone knows that poor Jim Henson died of pneumonia only because he was horrified at the idea of going back to Ol'Miss.*

*No one knows this.

HOLY CRAP its like Christmastime

2006-11-08T13:54:00.000-05:00

The Dems win the House. Possibly the Senate. Impotent losers no more! What else could possibly happen on such an auspicious day?

Donald Rumsfeld has resigned as Defense Secretary/Arbiter of Warfare and Senseless Death.

Who will fill the seat? Is little Georgie Bush sad and confused? Is Don just taking the fall for this latest coup d'etat? Will Jesus bring us any other gifts during this glorious holiday season? Will the Rummy action figure skyrocket in eBay value?

So many questions, not enough bow-tied Georgetown pundits to answer them. While our country's varied electoral districts continue to sort out the complex methodologies and malfunctions of rigging elections, at least I take solace in the fact that yet another dastardly robot has been put out of commission.

Bill Frist, you're next.

Hardwired Morality?

2006-10-31T11:54:00.000-05:00

Having grown up, like most Americans, with the cartoony figures of a little angel and a little devil balanced on either shoulder of a perplexed protagonist, this latest article in the New York Times really peaked my curiosity.

The book review takes a brief look at Marc D. Hauser's newly released piece of nerdo porn, Moral Minds (HarperCollins 2006). The question is eternal: Is the moral compass inherently and ephemerally human, distinct from the cold hard truths of natural selection, or could it be yet another target of our burgeoning understanding of evolutionary biology? I, of course, favor the latter. I think progressive thinking has always begun with disillusionment: contrary to religious dogma, we are less the magical children of some patriarchal cloud-dwelling diety than dirty, hairless primates struggling with existence. Our most base instincts are more easily explained by the emerging studies of neurobiology than by the little devil-and-pitchfork perched on our shoulder (left one, of course, sinistre).

Can't wait to put this on the Wish List!

Have you read it? What do you think?

Where's Operation Rescue now?

2006-10-24T09:35:00.000-04:00

This city gives almost-daily examples of neglectful, ignorant, and often poverty-stricken and young parents who made some bad decisions for their children (and by "bad" I mean "abusive or homidical"). Time after time, ACS comes and tries to manage these broken familes while case-workers are overwhelmed and the children just keep coming. Young mothers, without means or an education, periodically accompanied by temporary boyfriends, just keep falling into the same traps of having more and more children for which they are totally unequipped to give care.

So where are all the fanatical pro-life, anti-choice, fundamentalist Christian activists now? They are all so vehement in calling to arms against the innocent physicians and women of America who exercise their right to reproductive health and family planning... only to drop the cause the minute all these "saved" babies are born into environments that never welcomed nor planned for them.

Kevin is a ninja.

2006-10-23T09:51:00.000-04:00

This is my little brother.
He "teaches english" in Japan.
I don't know what he is doing but its hilarious, couched in broad stereotypes and brimming with sophomoric fun, so I stole this video from my other little brother, Robert.