Of course you've heard the
buzz. Some people live by it and others eschew the long lines and immoderate pricing. It's no
Sawtelle Blvd but that's not what it's aspiring for. The food is great and the locale is accessible and fun. I vote this eatery as Best Gratuitous Use of Pork in 2006. And when you find out that its also the name of the
mythical founder of Nissin Foods (Cup O' Noodle), Momofuku Ando, the joy and bemusement becomes unstoppable. Who better to name your ramen house for than the Chairman of the
International Ramen Manufacturers’ Association? If only I could have stocked my dorm room with this stuff instead of those evil Top Ramen bricks...
The tight shoebox of a dining space is centered around the open kitchen, where a hip young squad of chefs sling noodles and pitch the pork. The pace is fast and frenetic and convivial, however you are never rushed during your meal. Even large groups (at the larger communal tables near the front of the shoebox) wade through their meals at a leisurely pace while marveling at the dexterity of the kitchen crew. The decor is clean and minimalist (you can only fit so much in here after packing all the Berkshire pork in). You get the feeling that
Masaharu Morimoto might come here for late night ramen after a long day on the Iron Chef set.
So there are pork buns and there are
steamed Bershire pork buns. Pork buns are already the food of the gods. This interpretation is murderously good; and I've had my share of this delicious dim sum fare. The pulled pork was fatty but not greasy, glistening gloriously in its little pillow. Simple, elegant and unadorned, this is Momofuku's true legacy... Doesn't it look like the little guys are humping? SO cute. $9 for two.
Pickle Mania!! The assorted
seasonal pickle platter is definately the way to go: whole baby carrots, cucumbers, celery root (my favorite), radishes, and randomly, pineapple chunks. The sugary tartness of the latter was the perfect compliment to the lightly tangy vingeary crunch of the pickled veggies. Heaven for $7.
Eric wisely opted for the eponymous
Momofuku Ramen: Bershire Pork combo atop traditional ramen and topped with the heavenly poached egg. Both noodle bowls were generously garnished with collared greens (more use for the pork fat!), scallions, sliced bamboo shoots, and a sheet of nori (dried seaweed). The broth in this bowl was voluptuous and irresistable. Like $10 crack. But infused with pork.
The gorgeous
Pork Neck Ramen. Who knew that a braised pig neck could be so buttery tender and delicious? Well, I guess lots of people. But until this very moment, I was not in the loop. Needless to say, I am now an advocate of this overlooked little part of the porcine anatomy. I loved the broad shanghai ramen, too. Firm and toothsome, this is the meatiest of noodles (without going overboard with something like the doughy udon)... reminds me of my mom's noodle dishes. My favorite part? The poached egg, glossy and wobbly and perched precariously atop the bowl, crowning the dish with its golden gooey eggy goodness. $10
Sweet sweet sake, such a sultry salvation. Junmai variety, chilled:
Akitabare Koshiki Junzukuri. Perfect and crisp, not too dry, not too expensive. In short, the noodle bowl's ultimate soulmate.
Momofuku, 163 First Avenue (between 10th and 11th Streets)212.475.7899
Get ready for a long wait most weekend evenings. Dinner after 5pm.
